The wonder that we actually did it – that we pulled up roots and moved permanently from San Francisco to this island in the Mediterranean – hits me at odd times. Walking down one of the narrow streets of Palma’s old town and catching the whiff of onions and garlic frying. Or passing the café that is the center of life in our country town of Pollensa, in which old men are lined up against the wall, all facing the street so they can see and comment on everything and everyone that walks by (me included).

I think Wow, we really did it!

When I’m on a Zoom call with new clients, and as way of getting to know me, they ask the inevitable where-are-you-located question, I’ve learned to expect the widened eyes and quickened interest when I say Mallorca.

More Americans are becoming aware of Mallorca, thanks to shows like “The Night Manager” and “Cloud Atlas,” both of which were filmed here. We’re also seeing more and more travel articles about Mallorca in the New York Times and Washington Post, Conde Nast Traveler, Vogue, and elsewhere. There are now direct flights from Newark to Palma from April through October (more on that later). More often than not, people tell me, That’s my dream! to whom I say, Do it! With Spain’s new “Digital Nomad” visa, it’s easier than it’s ever been for an American to gain residency in this country. And the dollar is doing much better against the euro than when we bought our house in 2010 – at one point in 2023 actually at parity.

In this article, I’ll lay out a few of the thing I’ve learned in my journey to permanent residency in Spain, and what you can expect – as an American – if you decide to do the same.

Mallorca has everything

Ocean! Beaches! Mountains! Hiking! Biking! Concerts by contemporary big-name singers and bands. World-class symphony orchestra. Opera. Art museum and galleries galore. Michelin-starred restaurants. The freshest seafood and produce. You can even get New York-style bagels here that taste like the real thing (and we’re picky).

We’ve been here full-time for eight years and we’re still surprised at all the delights Mallorca has to offer. My husband is in an international hiking group that takes a different route into the mountains every Wednesday, typically to places with spectacular views of the island and the sea. He also plays his violin in a university orchestra that plays the standard orchestra repertoire to high standards. I founded a vibrant writing group that meets weekly, and which has a perpetual waiting list, as there is no end to the talented writers on this small island.

The people are so interesting, too! One of the biggest reasons we chose Mallorca was its cosmopolitan nature. People come from all over the world to live here. Mostly English and German, but also Scandinavian, Dutch, Japanese, French, and lots of South Americans. Everyone has a story about how they landed here. English is spoken everywhere, although of course if you are going to settle you should learn Spanish to better become part of the community.

Amazing homes

Are you a country person or a town person? A beach person or a mountain person? The good news is, you’re good no matter what – and it’s only a brief car (or bus) ride to the other extreme. Settle in the remote countryside, and you’re still within an hour (at most) of a cosmopolitan city (Palma) and its international airport – the third busiest in Spain, after Madrid and Barcelona.

A word to the wise: When looking for a property to buy – even before you arrange to visit it – ask whether it’s legal or not. Chances are good that at least parts of it won’t be, especially if you’re looking at country houses.

That’s because many Mallorquins still adhere to the time-honored practice of not bothering to ask the government before building or modifying houses. Whatever you do, don’t buy a house without a lawyer. Even a British member of Parliament had his house torn down because it was deemed illegal. The Spanish authorities don’t mess around.

The details: Get thee to a knowledgeable economista -- and driving instructor

Paperwork. Yes, Spain is notorious for it, and its reputation is well-deserved. It’s not a deal breaker, but it is something to be very conscious of. You need a gestor (similar to a paralegal, but with more stature) or lawyer who knows about residency requirements and procedures, as well as basic things like how to get your car checked by the ITV to keep it legal, and when (and how) to pay your garbage, water, and road taxes.

You also need an economista (similar to an accountant) who knows Spanish tax law inside and out, who speaks good English (you definitely don’t want anything to get lost in translation) who can do your Spanish taxes.

After much trial and error, I’ve found a combination that is both economical and keeps me compliant with both U.S. and Spanish authorities: a kick-ass economista who talks to my U.S. accountant, and who will go the extra mile to understand U.S.-Spanish tax treaties and regulations, thus enabling me to sleep at night.

Then there’s the driving exam – actually two of them, a written and a “practical,” like in most of the U.S. states. You will have to start the process of getting your Spanish license within six months of settling in Mallorca. The written part of the exam you can take in English (although the translation is so bad you might consider learning the rudimentary Spanish necessary to take in the original language), but you must take the practical exam in Spanish, which means knowing sufficient vocabulary that will be used to direct you through the streets of Palma when evaluating your driving skills.

Easy travel throughout Europe

Where do you want to go? Mallorca is a major travel hub for Europe, and you can get cheap, direct flights to hundreds of destinations. You’re just two hours to Paris, two and a half to London, even fewer to Zurich or Frankfurt.

Plus, as an island resident, you get 75% off all flights within Spain. That’s how we were able to get round-trip tickets for us both to and from Seville (which where I’m writing this article) for under 40 euros.

The Americans are coming!

“The Americans Have Landed in Mallorca!” was the banner headline of the Mallorca Daily Bulletin, on June 3, 2022, the day the first United flight carrying Americans directly from Newark to Palma landed. People talked about it all summer. Did you know…? And we definitely started to hear more American voices around the island.

We hear that more direct flights from U.S. cities are on the planning board. Which will give more Americans the opportunity to visit our beautiful island. Come in the spring or fall for the best weather (not too hot) and best overall experience (fewer tourists), but come for sure. You’re likely to fall in love, just like we did.

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Bio

Alice LaPlante is an award-winning writer, editor, and teacher of writing, who has been writing about technology in Silicon Valley for more than 20 years. A NY Times bestselling author, Alice has published four novels and five non-fiction books, as well as edited best-selling books for many other writers of fiction and nonfiction. Alice lives with her family in Mallorca.